LFW Runway Report: Issa Spring 2016
“We started looking at organic fractal and geometric patterns, and there was this amazing sense of contradiction- we tend to think of nature as something soft and slightly haphazard, but the order and strict geometry of these repeating patterns offered a viewpoint that we wanted to explore,”  Jamie O’Hare creative director of Issa said.
Indeed, this juxtaposition was seen in the collection’s feminine, fluid, draped fabrics that are paired with strong graphic patterns and interlocking hardware. Linear prints split and pixelate in recurring patterns, reminiscent of electronic circuitry, whilst 3-D circular forms are placed over geometric grids on a Tron inspired print. The infinite circles of fractal patterns recur in varying scales and arrangements and inform tie die prints.
White, lime and lapis blue colours provide a clean, fresh palette. The season’s graphic patterns are interpreted through fabrication and construction; the interlocking structure of broderie anglaise mimics the formation of organic cells, whilst lace jersey and knits feature graphic and concentric textures. Embroidery gives the prints further depth, with white broderie anglaise coat, trousers and shorts over embroidered with metal hardware, beading and clear piping.
Elsewhere the embroidery becomes integral to the garment’s construction; with an Aline V neck dress assembled from layered glossy enamel interlocking segments and a laser cut printed tile dress pieced together with geometric hardware. The brand’s signature draping is apparent on silk and devore jersey dresses, and fluid textured crepe knits, as well as shawl effect sleeves that drape across arms and backs. Sheer and lace panels create a focus on the body beneath the clothes; on a geometric metallic fil coupe jacquard knit dress and sheer panel tailoring. Wrapover shirts, dresses and jumpsuits with obi style belting offer a relaxed, feminine silhouette.
